Stone Setting
1. Prong Setting
A gemstone is held in place by prongs (claws). Prongs may be jointed either with metal or gemstone seat made in Bezel Setting. Prongs appear in many shapes such as round, triangle, square, or heart etc. depending on jewelry designs. However, the thickness of each prong is normally equal to each other in one jewelry piece. One, two or multiple claws are extended over the stone and carved to make a resting place or seat for the stone. The number of prongs in one jewelry work depends on size, shape of gemstone, and the design. Four, six and eight prongs are commonly found in prong-set jewelry. In addition, four or six prongs are usually used in bigger size of stone that needs longer prongs. Several types of Prong Setting include: - Prong Setting with four claws 
- Shared Prong Setting: only one prong holding two gemstones
- Multi Prong Setting: six and eight prongs are mostly made in this type of setting
2. Pave setting
Pave setting is a setting of several tiny gemstones such as facet-cut gemstones, cabochon (stones cut in convex shape), or pearls placed so close together in the seat. Beads are normally used to hold the stone and at least three beads are used for a stone. Pave setting usually covered the entire metal or almost all of the metal. The stones may be placed in a row or in circle etc. The resting place for the stone may be in convex, curved or flat shape.
3. Channel Setting
Gemstones are placed in rows between rails or channels. The rail is short or long depending on the amount of stones used. Stones are normally in the same size either in facet-cut or round-cut shapes. Each stone is snugly held in the rail or channel which has been carved to secure the tip and the bottom of the stone. Each side of stones in a channel is squeezed by its adjacent stones.
Channel Setting can also have only a single stone in the channel such as Half Bezel
4. Bezel Setting
In Bezel Setting, a gemstone is held in the seat by the metal that encircles all sides of the stone and extends slightly above it. Bezel Setting is more commonly used with cabochon stones due to its opaque quality than transparent stones. This is because light cannot pass through the stone causing no sparkling or shinning effect. Sometimes, a small hole can be made at the bottom of the seat to allow more light to the stone.
5. Tube Setting
Tube setting has the same methods with Bezel Setting. Only that the metal in tube-set jewelry is taller and has a tube-like shape.
6. Flush Setting
A stone is held below the surface of the metal. The seat is no need to be done but a drill inside the metal. It is important that the outlet of the stone is not shown. Mostly, moderate-size or small-size of gemstone is used in Flush Setting. The stone is placed into a hole by tools. The metal surrounding the stone and the top of stone’s girdle are then blushed to secure the stone. Gems normally look smaller than they are in this setting method.
7. Tension Setting
A gemstone is held by an enormous strength of metal pressed on the stone. Platinum is commonly used in tension setting due to its hard quality. Other metals with minimum mixture of alloy are also good for Tension Setting. Medium or smaller stones are more suitable to be used in this setting.
8. Roman Setting
Gemstone is placed directly into the metal which acts as a seat itself. A cut on the metal is made around the stone to emphasize the stone seat.
9. Invisible Setting
Square-shape gemstones are placed in a row side by side with no space left between. The gems are laid so close that the metal in the bottom cannot be seen. Brilliant-cut stones are normally used in invisible setting method. The stones must be in the same size, similar or match color. The seat is also in a square shape placing altogether to support the stones which has also been cut in the same shape. This allows stones to be securely placed in their seats. Moreover, two cuts are made oppositely on each stone’s pavilion to have it fit perfectly in the seat. (process to be made at the goldsmith’s)
10. Illusion Setting
A gemstone is held either by prongs or beads but some space around the stone is left empty. Pave-setting in a radius line may be made to make the stone look bigger than it is.
11. Kundun Setting
The method of Kundun Setting is the same as in Bezel Setting only the process of the seat making is different. The seat in Kundun setting is normally made from pure metal which has softer quality. Gemstone can be pushed into the seat by pressing. The seat is usually put with highly light reflecting material before a transparent gem is placed. This method makes the stone more shinning. Colored gems, tin or pure silver are mostly used.
12. Back Setting
Gemstone is placed at the back of the seat like in Prong Setting. INSIDE |
